installing Temporary Cabin Sole
After I installed the pump and the beam I cut the 3/4" plywood platform. This will be replaced by hard wood at some point later in the construction of the interior. I made a cut out for the pump handle. I think the pump will work fine there but I may move it around a bit later to see of moving it further forward will work better with the handle stored in the up, vice down, position.
Once I installed the platform, and cleated it so it won't slide around, I placed the ladder in position. I think it works great. The angle seems to be fine. What a treat to walk up and down the ladder. In the background you can see the counter top cleat is at a different angle than the steps. The steps are level, but the cleat is not. This goes way back to earlier entries where I struggled with trying to find what was level on the boat--nothing matched. For a variety of reasons, all explained on the water-tank installation page, I went with the deck as the point of reference. I believe the builder installed the interior not level. So, the cleat will be removed and a new one installed later. Man, I hope I was right about this!!
After I cut the plywood from the pattern I needed to cut the bevel to match the slope of the hull. I used a bevel gauge and a torpedo level to determine the slope. Then I put the same angle on my Bosch jig saw, stood the template on edge, and cut the bevel. I smoothed it out and fine tuned it with a smoothing plane.
The plywood under the companionway is just temporary. I wanted to see just how the space looks and how much storage room I will have without the engine. I also needed a flat place to work. The notch cut out to the right of the landing for the companionway ladder will have a fore and aft bulkhead that will separate the storage space from the galley. The handle sticking up goes to a Model 117 bronze Edson gallon-a-stroke bilge pump. The pump intake will take water from the bilge sump, of course, but it will also evacuate a grey water tank that the icebox and sitz tub will drain into.
After completing the storage area under the cockpit I began work on the bottom of the settee lockers. Before I could put in the locker bottoms I need to build a support for the aft end of the starboard locker. I scribed the hull shape on small piece of 1/4" ply. Then I cut it out and test fit it to make sure it was accurate. Next I laid the pattern on a scrap piece of 2" thick white oak that was just big enough and cut it out with the jigsaw. Once I was satisfied with the fit, I mixed up some cabosil thickened epoxy and smeared it on the bottom and aft side of the knee. Then I clamped it to the existing floor beam using a strong back laid across the top to the other floor beams to make sure the top edge was even with the other beams. Then I made a fillet and once it was partially cured I laid a two layers of biaxial against it. Once that task was completed I moved on to the settee locker bottoms.
I made the templates for locker bottoms the same way that I did for the storage area under the companionway ladder. I had to allow 7/8" for the vertical face of the settee to fit between the locker bottom and the where the hardwood cabin sole sill ultimately lay. The vertical face will be comprised of 1/2" ply and 3/8" African mahogany "v-groove" that I will mill in my shop and glued to the ply. I built a test panel of this wood and posted it on 16 July 10.
In the photos you can see spacer blocks between the locker bottom and the temporary cabin sole in the center of the boat. The ply for the locker bottom is 3/4" Okume BS 1088. Right now they are just laying against the hull and on the knees. Eventually, they will be glassed into the hull along the outside edge and tabbed underneath to the knees as well. Once they are glassed in, I'll insert a full length spacer block between the locker bottom and the temporary sole to keep tools and other things from falling into the bilge.
Later I'll make blocks to secure the water tanks in place.