To install the pipes I first had to determine exactly where they needed to be positioned. I decided the simplest and strongest way to attach them would be to through-bolt the bottom end of the pipes to the cabin sole cross beams and secure the upper end in pipe flanges screwed into the overhead. The location of the cross beams would, of course, influence how far apart they could be spaced (they ended up 38" apart). However, the overhead is just 1/4" plywood and there is a 3/4" gap between the plywood panels and the underside of the deck. I installed 1/2" AP closed cell foam as additional insulation last year and I would need to beef up the overhead panels if the pipes were going to be fasten to the panels. Also, because I wanted to install the pipes off the centerline, the pads between the pipe flange and the panels would have to be scribed to fit the camber of the cabin top. I made those pads, from mahogany, first and temporarily fastened the flanges to the pads. I cut the pipes a little long, removed the cabin sole, and test fit them in position making sure they were plumb. Gayle and I discussed the location and I left them clamped overnight. Satisfied they were in the right place, the next day, I carefully marked the location and removed the pipes and the overhead panels. Next, I cut out some of the insulation and made hardwood pads that fit snugly between the underside of the deck and the inside surface of the plywood overhead panel. I wiped the fiberglass down and then drilled some 1/4" holes into the underside of the deck. I mixed up some thickened epoxy and then pressed the hardwood pads in place. My thinking was the thickened epoxy would be forced up into the holes and create a stronger bond. I heavily filleted around the edges of the hardwood pads and left them overnight to cure. Next day, I reinstalled the overhead panels and aligned the mahogany pads with the marks on the overhead and temporarily fastened the flanges in place. With the hardwood spacer pads in place I can tightened down on the mahogany pad/pipe flange without fear of distorting or crushing the plywood overhead panels. There is a #14 screw in the center of the mahogany pad that goes through the overhead panel and into the hardwood spacer. The three screws of the pipe flange are #10 SS 1 1/2" long that pass through the mahogany pad, the overhead panel, and into the hard wood spacer. I previously marked the bottom of the pipe and cut it so it stops about 3/4" above the water tanks that are under the cabin sole. I drilled a 3/8" hole through the pipe and the cross beam that supports the cabin sole. I then installed a 3 1/2" hex head bolt with SS nylon locking nut. The bolt has full shoulders and with the 1/8" pipe sidewalls I think this is a very strong arrangement. Then, I marked the temporarily plywood cabin sole (the finished sole will be 7/8" thick black walnut) and used a 2" hole saw to cut holes for the stanchions. Then, I ripped the plywood sole right through the center of the hole on my table saw and dropped them into place. I think this system provides a lot more room in the boat than the original double drop leaf table that came with the Far Reach. A centerline drop leaf table leaves you no place to put your feet when the table is in the down position. Interestingly, as heavy as the pipes are (about 14 lbs each) I believe I also saved some weight as the original table is much heavier. Another advantage to this system is the vertical pipes are a much more convenient hand hold--especially for my kids that would have been able to reach the original overhead grab bar. I suspect this system adds some additional strength to the cabin top as well.