Before I can glass in the bottoms to the settees I needed to determine where the Refleks heater will go and how it would tie into the furniture. Once I decided that the best place is against the aft side of the starboard side bulkhead, at the head of the settee, then I could finalize the design and glass in the bottom to the settees. First thing is I need to cut back the locker bottom on the starboard side to accommodate the low platform for the Refleks heater. Click here to see the basic layout. Because the starboard settee sticks out about four inches past the bulkhead the passageway between the settee and the mast will be tight. By angling back the corner of the platform that the heater sits on towards the bulkhead, I can open up the passage way and still ensure the heater has the required "stand-off" from the bulkhead, pilot berth, and settee. To make the angled platform though, I will have to cut back the okume ply locker bottom, since with the angled cut the plywood would otherwise be visible, and replace it with black walnut to match the rest of the cabin sole. The forward end of the locker bottom needs a support, once cut back from the floor beam, so I had to measure how wide the heater platform would be then cut the ply, in the right spot, and then glass in a support underneath it.
I made a template for the support from 1/4" ply scrap. I chose to make the support from some scrap 7/8" thick mahogany. Once I was satisfied with the fit of the support I temporarily screwed it to the bottom of the okume locker bottom to hold it in the correct position. I then spread some thickened epoxy on the bottom of the support and placed the ply locker bottom in position. When the epoxy squished out between the bottom of the support and the hull, I used a rounded plastic stir stick to make a fillet for 17.7oz biaxial tape that I'll apply tomorrow. I will remove the screws and proceed to glass in the bottom of both the port and starboard lockers.
Cleats to support the outboard edge of the bottom of the settee locker.
I spent part of the morning going over the diagrams I drew up for the settees and pilot berths. Basically I used a level and ruler and just spent time checking my math. This is not something I want to mess up! Once I was satisfied with the math I went back to work on the boat.
Next, I removed the water tanks so that I will be able to get into the bilge and be better positioned to epoxy tape in the settee locker bottoms. Then I bolted in the riser/beam at the forward end of the main cabin with two 3/8" SS bolts. Then I repositioned the temporary cabin sole. Next, I made some cleats to provide additional support to the the outboard edge of the settee locker bottoms. I used a sliding bevel gauge to determine the angle. I used some Iroko I had on hand and cut the proper angle on the table saw. Once satisfied with how they fit I positioned them with some thickened epoxy. The locker bottoms will be supported by the knees on the inboard side and by these cleats on the outboard side. They will also be epoxy taped to the hull with two layers of biaxial, so the cleats are just additional support.
Starboard side.
The next day I taped the settee locker bottom in. I started by scrubbing off the amine blush with water and a 3M maroon scrub pad that formed on the underside of the locker after applying three coats of epoxy yesterday. Then I lightly sanding them with a RO sander with some 80 grit followed by some gentle hand sanding with 60 grit. I test fit the ply to make sure every thing fit properly. I sanded the portion of the hull that the outboard edge of the ply would lay against as well as the area the epoxy tape would contact the hull. I also sanded the area the tape would be applied to on the supports that the beams are bolted to. Then I vacuumed and did a thorough acetone wipe down. I marked off on the hull where the outer area of the tape would lie and cut two layers for each side--a six inch and a four inch wide strip of 17.7oz biaxial tape. Next, I mixed up a bunch of epoxy thickened with cabosil and a little 407 to make it smooth. I gooped it on the beveled outboard edge of the ply and positioned it against the hull. I kept applying more thickened epoxy till I completely filled the gap between the ply and the hull I smoothed the excess to a nice fillet. I checked to make sure the locker bottom was level. When I finished the starboard side I moved over and repeated the same steps with the port side. I gave it an hour to set up. Then, I wetted out the tape, the appropriate area on the locker bottom and on the hull and applied the two layers of tape.
Next, I cut 12 four inch wide strips of 17.7 oz biaxial six inches long. I cut some foam wedges and contact cemented them to the sides of the supports that the beams are bolted to and the inside edge of the locker bottom sits on. I wetted out the tape and applied some slightly thickened epoxy to the area where the tape would go. Then I applied two layers of tape to bond the bottom of the locker to the beam supports--two layers of tape on the three supports for each side. I used a heat gun to accelerate the curing since the temperature was beginning to drop.
After the tape was begining to harden I used a razor knife to cut out the tape over the small drain holes I cut in the locker bottoms yesterday.
That finished up the day.
Epoxy tape under locker bottom.
Port side settee locker glassed in.
Drains in locker bottoms.
Today I scrubbed the newly applied epoxy tape with water and a 3M pad and wiped it dry with paper towel. Then I lightly sanded it with 80 grit on the 5" Porter Cable right angle DA sander with the vacuum hooked up to debur the edges and lightly scuff it up. Then, I reinstalled the water tanks now that the installing the locker bottoms is complete. It is great to get the locker bottoms glassed in. They feel very solid, in fact the boat feels more solid and seems to vibrate a little less when I walk through it . . . but it could just be my imagination. Nonetheless, I am very pleased with how it turned out.
Forward Cabin
Today, I leveled the partial bulkhead in the forward cabin. This bulkhead used to support the V-berth. Now it will support a portside double berth and also serve as the aft end of the chain for the chain rode. Because 280' or so of 5/16" high test chain is heavy I want to move it out of the old locker which was all the way forward just behind the stem of the boat. Though some sailors store their chain there I think it is a lot of weight that far forward in the boat. I can move it back about three feet which will help some. The chain pipe will have to angle back slightly but the double bunk will still be about 78" long and almost 48" wide.
As previously discussed every horizontal surface in the boat must be re-leveled. In the first photo below you can see how far out of level the partial bulkhead was. Look closely and you can see a pencil line drawn just under the top edge. After marking it, I clamped a straight edge to it and used a router with a flush bit with an end bearing to cut a new edge.
Next, I made a template from doorskin ply wood and laid it on top of a plank of 5/4" cypress. I made it an inch wider (taller) to allow for a 1" deep rabbit cut that allowed it to sit on top of the old bulkhead but overlap the front so I could through-bolt it to the old bulkhead. That way all the weight is on top of the old bulkhead. The bolts just keep it from moving. I cut the pattern out and then cut the rabbit with a 3/4" stack dado on the table saw. I test fit it and drilled the holes then secured it with three 1/4" X 1 1/2" bolts with washers and nylon lock nuts. The new top edge effectively raises the berth about two inches which will provide a little more width to the berth and create a little more room for chain storage underneath the forward part of the berth.
Finally, after much aggravating delay, I started work on the mahogany staving. I began by sorting the pieces I will use for the bulkhead in the forward compartment. Some of the mahogany was a little wavy when I ripped it on the table saw. Thus, tension was tension released in some of the pieces which caused them to "hook" slightly. By cutting some of these pieces to length and reducing the overall length of each piece I reduce the amount of wood that has to be removed on the jointer before I resaw, lap, and cut V-grooves. Pre-cutting the lengths makes the whole process much more cumbersome but straightening out these 10' long pieces on the jointer would just waste a lot of fine wood. I will use these pieces in the forward compartment where they won't be easily seen though I think they will still look fine . . . they're just not as straight grained as the rest. It will also give me a chance to get a feel for the technique I will use for installing the V-groove in the rest of the boat.
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After a lot of thought I removed the cypress beam that I had previously installed (see the pictures and entry above) raising the frame work for the double berth by 2". As I learned more about the foam mattresses and how thick they will be (4" thick for the pilot and quarter berth and 5" thick for the forward double berth) I realized I would like to have more room above the forward bunk. This is all due to the fact that I think we will be sleeping with our heads forward. So, I need to lower the bunk and that means the 2" higher beam has to come out and in fact I trimmed another 1 1/2" off the partial bulkhead so I lowered it a total of 3 1/2 inches. This will be better in the long run.
It was time to epoxy tape the double berth vertical panel in place. It went smooth. I cut the panel out yesterday after making a doorskin template. I beveled the one end that fits against the bulkhead so it fits flush with the vertical cleat. The cleat is also beveled at 35 degrees. The curved edge of the panel is beveled 30 degrees to fit the sloping hull. I planed the edges and sealed the bottom edge with epoxy last night. So, all I had to do today was cut the foam and contact cement it to the plywood, clamp it in place, and check it for fit. I glued and screwed the bulkhead edge to the cleat I installed yesterday and then taped both sides with a single piece of 6" wide 17.8 biaxial tape and West Epoxy. It looks good and it's great to get it installed. It will need at least one, if not two, dividers. The front face will eventually be covered with mahogany staving.
I spent a little time this afternoon milling a test piece of Juniper (Atlantic White Cedar) to see if it will work for bunk boards. This is super light wood. I ran one side of the 5/4 test piece over the jointer, then planed the other side. Next I resawed it with a thin kerf blade and then ran the resawn edges back through the planer. I was hoping for 1/2" thick but the best I could do was 15/32." Close enough for bunk boards. The test piece came out nice. Too bad I need to varnish them as they smell terrific.
It feels good to look forward and see the double berth panel in place finally.
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We have been thinking about adding some drawers since we don't have plans for them anywhere else in the boat at the moment. They are usually a huge waste of space. Since the head compartment is taken up with the sitz tube, the head, and perhaps a sink there is not a lot of room for cabinets or storage in there. We thought we should have a couple of drawers for convenience close to the head even if it cost us some space. So, we covered the forward berth vertical panel with brown paper and drew them on it. We liked what we saw. I took a day to think about how to build them . . . measuring, sketching, reading some cabinet-making books, and comparing with cabinets I have built in the past. I decided it required two dividers be installed the appropriate distance apart that would match the outside diameter of the drawer box itself. In this case, 15 inches. It was not an efficient way to divide up the compartment but it seemed the best way to build the drawer support system and protect the drawers from loose stuff in the storage area under the forward berth from interfering with them. It will also stiffen of the whole assembly.
I built templates from doorskin and a hot glue gun. I test clamped them in place. I sealed the edges with epoxy. When I was ready, I used contact cement to glue on the foam wedge between the divider and the hull and then clamped the divider in place. I used a single piece of 6" wide 17.8 biaxial wetted out with West Systems epoxy on each side of the divider. I installed the forward divider two days ago and the aft one today. For the aft one, I cut back to 4" wide biaxial and that seems to be enough. Tim Lackey suggested to me that a single layer on each side was sufficient for non structural things like dividers. I have to work at overcoming my desire to apply multiple layers. But, strong enough is strong enough and there is no sense making the boat heavier than it needs to be.
I spent the rest of the day sorting out how to attack the forward support for the bunk and how it will tie into the anchor locker that will be install "aft" of the forward most bulkhead. I'd like to get 240' of 5/16" chain out of the nose of the boat if possible.
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Update 6July 11: While I was installing the countersinks it occurred to me that it was time to fish-or-cut-bait regarding the forward berth design. I spend a lot of time in the early spring deciding how it should be built and after a lot of thought I decided to install two partitions so I could have pull out drawers in the face of the berth vertical panel. But after looking at it for months I slowly came to the realization that I did not like those two panels. First, they added a lot of unnecessary weight to the front end of the boat. Second, they made the storage compartment too small. Third, they would not do a good job of providing even support for the bunk boards . . . I would have to add more supports. And last, the cushions (which will be divided) would not be evenly split up.
I did not like the two dividers.
So, I cut them out and will replace the two with one divider that is perpindcular to the centerline of the boat.
So, tonight I took the saws-all and cut them out then ground out all the excess with a high speed grinder and a flapper wheel. On the bad side it made a hell of a mess. On the good side it validated my reasons for not gluing everything together. The cleats were glued to the vertical panel and screwed to the dividers (if I had been thinking I would have done it the other way). I simply unscrewed them and cut the bulkhead away. I'll leave the cleats in place as stiffeners for the vertical panel. In place of the two panels I will install a single divider that will be perpendicular to the axis of the boat. Instead of pull out drawers, I'll install shelves with cabinet doors that drop open.
After removing the two dividers with a saws-all and then grinding out the tabbing I built a template for the new single divider. I picked up a piece of 1/2" Okume from Atlantic Veneer in Beaufort, NC . . . which is just up the road from me.
Before: Two dividers.
After: One divider.
When I got back, I traced the template out on the ply and then cut it out with a jigsaw. I cut one side with a 36 degree bevel to match the face of the forward berth and the other side with a 15 degree bevel to match the angle of the hull. I test fit it. Then I scribed a 3/8" deep line with a compass and cut it off to allow for the thickness of the closed cell foam wedge spacer. I power-planed a 2" wide strip on both sides of the divider so the biaxial tape would lie flush with the surface of the plywood divider. I clamped a temporary brace to the top horizontal edge of the divider and then clamped the brace to two strong backs that would ensure it was level with the top of the other berth supports. Next, I glued and screwed a cleat to one side and applied two coats of West Epoxy to the edge grain of the divider that would be closest to the hull and let it sit overnight.
Today, I attached the foam wedge to the divider with contact cement (this just holds it in place so it can't slide around) and reclamped it into position, screwed the cleat to the vertical panel of the double berth (through the staving and ply backing with #10 1 1/2" ss screws) then performed a thorough acetone wipe-down. I wet out the two inch wide strip on the inside of the hull on both sides of the divider as well as the divider where the tape would lay. I wet out the biaxial tape and applied it the hull and the divider. I left it clamped for 8 hours.
The next task was to fasten cleats to both sides of the divider that I installed a couple of days ago. This particular divider provides support the double berth and serves as the aft end of what will be the "cabinet" box for the drawers that will be installed in the vertical face panel of the double berth. The drawers can only extend about 16" before they hit the starboard side main saloon bulkhead. Because they are not full extension slides--they will ride on ash cleats--they will end up being about 20'-22" long and only extend about 3/4 of their length. I'll install a rear panel to this drawer cabinet to prevent other items stored in the compartment from interfering with the drawers. Essentially, it will be it's own little drawer compartment. It is a waste of space and not very efficient but sometimes you just need to have a couple of drawers and this seemed the best place to put them.
The bigger project was getting the aft divider for the anchor locker installed. This was not particularly difficult but it took longer than I would have liked due to family obligations so I spaced it out over two days. After making the template I laid it on a piece of 1/2" okume plywood. After I cut out the divider I went back and forth from the boat to the shop a few times trimming it and getting a good fit. It required a 28 degree angle cut on the sides. When I was satisfied with the fit I used my pencil compass to scribe a line 3/8" from the outer edge then took the divider back to the shop. I used the jig saw to cut this part off the divider and provide room for the 3/8" thick closed cell foam spacer. I cut the foam spacer with 45 degree angles on both sides on my table saw. For a long time I used a serrated knife to cut closed cell foam but the table saw works much better and leaves a very smooth surface.
Next, I used my power planer to remove 1/16" of ply about 2" wide on the aft side of the diver so the tape would lay flush with the surface of the ply. This makes it easier to apply the mahogany staving. Since the forward face will not have staving on it--you can't see it and it would only make the locker smaller--I did not plane that side. I sealed the edge grain with two coats of unthickend epoxy and left it to cure over night. I then cleaned up the table I use for wetting out biaxial and cut some more sheet plastic. I precut 4" wide biaxial tape so I would be ready to go the first thing the next day. I also sanded the fiberglass surface in the boat where the tape would lay as part of the preparation. I vacuumed the dust up and performed a thorough acetone wash down.
Next morning, with everything set up it was a simple task to contact cement the foam wedge spacer onto the edge of the plywood that had been sealed the day before. With the clamping system in position I test fit it one more time. I did a final acetone wipe down, wet out the hull where the 4" wide tape would lay as well as the plywood, and then wet out the biaxial tape. It only took about 10 minutes to lay the tape down--a single strip on each side port and starboard and on the front and aft sides of the divider. About two hours later I used a box cutter to trim the edges of the tape that extended past the top and bottom edge of the divider. It is a hundred times easier to trim the biaxial when it is green than went it is cured.
After several days of putting off cutting out the drawer openings in the forward berth vertical panel, it is finally done. I picked up a pattern cutting router bit (bearing on router side of cutting edge) today at a local hardware store. I used a plywood guide bar attached to the front plywood panel with dry wall screws. I triple checked the cutting lines and made the cuts by moving the guide bar around accordingly. The rounded corners still need to be chiseled out. I think the advantage of this technique is that when the staving is epoxied on to the ply, I can use the cutout to serve as a template for a pattern cutting router bit with the bearing on the cutting edge end. Done this way, the staving edge will exactly match the cut out.
The center span between the drawers is 1 1/2". After the staving is attached and it is trimmed to match the drawer cut outs, I'll add 1/4" thick pencil bead trim which will make the center span 2" wide. My plan is to use mahogany for the rails and styles and a lighter colored wood, such as ash, for the raised panel.
Installing the Settees and Pilot Berths
I tried to get right back to work on the inside of the boat after shipping the gammon iron pattern off to PTF. I spent some more time measuring, which is what I always do when I worry. Measure it again. Look at the drawings. Measure it again. Ha. Anyway, I decided to use mahogany cleats if they will be seen. I have some scrap 1"x1" so it they work just fine. The cleats at the forward end of the pilot berths (the foot) extend to the deck overhead because there will be about a 16" wide panel there that comes down and will be scarfed into the top edge of the settee back. Staving will cover it so it should look seamless. Click here to see drawings of the basic layout. On the other end, the cleat only has to only be long enough to support the settee back. I cut the cleats, measured and drilled the holes, countersunk them, and routered the visible edge with a 1/4" round-over bit. Then I installed them. When I am sure I won't have to remove them for some reason, I will plug all the holes in the cleats. Everything will get varnished.
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In order to build dividers that would support the back of the settees I needed to build a proper pattern. There are lots of different ways to make them. Some folks like to use a "joggle" stick. I have not used one but will at some point. Because I had to keep everything on a single line I thought the doorskin pattern would work well. I clamped two of my modified "square and level" 2x4s cut to the correct length to fit between the bulkheads and clamped them to the cleats that I installed a few days ago and which support the settee backs. I checked to make sure they were level and plumb. Then it was just a matter of using the hot glue gun and strips of doorskin that I cut with tin snips to make the pattern. I made sure it would be a little taller than necessary so I could cut it level after it is installed.
Next I took a couple of 2x4s that I have run over the jointer and through the planner several times over the last year to keep them nice and straight. I clamped them to the cleats to make sure everything was lined up plum, level, and square to the centerline.
After that I used a pice of 1/8" doorskin plywood to make a pattern for the settee back. I cut it to basically fit between the cleants but not reach the hull. This would be the foundation for the pattern. I used 1/2" stips of plywood between the cleats and the doorskin to offset the face of the doorskin to the same place the real 1/2" ply will be position. Otherwise the doorskin pattern would not be in the same spot as the inboard edge of the 1/2 ply sette back would be. Make sense? Then I used a hot glue gun to attach little strips of doorskin ply to the doorskin foundation to just touch the hull (I don't have a picture of this but will post one later). When I was satisfied I removed the pattern and laid it out on 4x8 sheet of 1/2" BS 1088 Okume ply. I made tick marks with a pencil where the pointers were and connected the dots. I checked the angle of the hull from vertical with a bevel guage and dialed that in on my jigsaw. Then carefully reviewing which way the pattern was laid and which way the angle needed to be beveled on the 1/2" plywood I cut the pattern out. I smothed the edges with a block plane and clamped it in place, made sure it was level and plumb, and checked for fit.
It dawned on me pretty quick that I needed to install the support piece for the back of the settee before I could go any further.
When I was satisfied with the pattern, I laid it on 1/2" BS 1088, and made tick marks at the end of each pointed "stick." Then I connected the dots with a pencil. I cut the pattern out with a jig saw and test fit it in place. I had earlier decided to install it on one of the glassed over foam "ribs" used to support ceiling strips along the hull that was exactly halfway between the bulkheads. I test fit the pattern and used the hot glue gun to make little brackets on the 2x4s to hold the dividers in place. I used my power planer to run a 1/16" deep rabbit cut along both sides of the divider so the tape would lay flush. I then vacuumed the area, did a thorough acetone wash down, and brushed on slightly thickened epoxy on the hull and laid a 6"wide strip of wetted out 17.7 biaxial over the rib to reinforce it. I used a squeegee to remove any air bubbles. Next, I sealed the edge of the plywood divider with epoxy and positioned it in place. I mixed up well thickened epoxy and made fillets on both sides of both dividers. Then I gave it about 45 minutes to start to firm up. Next, I took the pre-measured and cut 6" wide biaxial strips, wetted them out, and laid a single piece on each side of the divider.
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Next I made the pattern for the port side settee back. I made it the same way as I made the one for the starboard side (see 23 Feb 11 entry). This time I took a picture. After cutting the settee back out of 1/2" BS 1088 I test fit it. I cut some foam for wedges to place under the bottom edge of the settee back when I epoxy tape it in place. Then, after more measuring I removed both settee backs, held in place with clamps, and trimmed the dividers level. To do this I used a plywood straight edge clamped in place and checked for level. Then I used a small roto-zip with a flush cut router pattern cutting bit (with a guide bearing on the end). I usually use a more powerful router but the space was small and the roto-zip worked well. After that I spent some time in the wood shop gathering the wood I will used for cleats . . . mahogany if it will be seen and Douglass Fir if it won't be seen.
I am ready for the boat to start shrinking inside. I have been waiting a long time for the boat to start shrinking inside. I welcome it! Today we made a little progress towards that end.
I began by installing cleats on both sides of the settee back dividers. I test fit the settee backs again. I temporarily screwed in the starboard side settee back. I measured and built templates for the bulkheads that separates the heater compartment from the settee on the starboard side and the sideboard from the settee on the portside. I cut out the patterns and test fit them in place. I let both of them run wild. The one on the starboard side will be cut down quite a bit (see the drawing below) but I don't want to do that till I have decided how they will be attached.
I was unable to decide how to attach these two small bulkheads. Do I dado the settee backs for them to fit into or use cleats or both? If I use cleats how will I hide them or blend them in to the mahogany staving, yet to be installed, so as not to draw attention to them. I'll muse on that this evening. Maybe the answer will come to me.
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Last night I finished installing the settee backs, pilot berth foot divider panels, and the dividers between the forward end of the settee and the sideboard on the port side and settee and the heater compartment on the starboard side. This was a lot more work than I anticipated but it turned out well I think. I worked hard to have everything fit properly--square and plumb, dados for the dividers, flush rabbet cuts for epoxy tape, drain holes for condensation, and epoxy sealing where necessary.
Below are photos that tell some of the story. The first problem began when I bought the boat . . . just kidding . . . when we decided the compartment for the heater box needed to be a little smaller. So, in order to move the divider forward I had to scarf on a 2" wide extension on to the front end of the starboard settee locker bottom. That made both settees 60" long. Even though the two settees are slightly staggered, due to the bulkheads being staggered, it looks much better. Scarfing the piece on was a fair amount of work but worth it I think. Next, I removed the settee backs, that had been temporarily held in place, and cut dados for the back edge of the dividers and also cut 1/16" deep and 3" wide rabbets with the planer along the bottom edge on both sides . . . 3" on the inside face and 2" wide on the outside. Having the tape lie flush will make it is easier to apply the vertical staving when the ply has a smooth face and also when I install sub dividers inside the settee lockers and under the pilot berths. I also cut slots, with a slot cutter on my router table to ensure proper alignment between the pilot berth divider panels, to be attached on the top edge of the settee back. At the time I also cut and fit the two upper panels to be attached to the settee back top edge. I made splines to fit in the slots and marry up the two pieces of plywood. I thought about using a biscuit cutter but I don't always get the alignment I am looking for with a slot cutter. The splines lined them up perfectly. Then I cut rabbets with the planer along the edges where they joined to provide a recessed surface for the biaxial tape.
I used foam wedges under the edge of the settee backs, not so much to prevent "hard spots, but because it would elevate the edge-grain of the ply and create a more uniform bend to the biaxial tape. To allowed for a few drain holes along the bottom edge of the settee backs, I cut the foam out in a few places so water (condensation when running the heater in cold climates) would have a place to go. Before the epoxy tape was fully cured I cut the tape were the gaps in the foam were and filled the space under the edge and between the tape on the two sides with thickened epoxy leaving little rectangular holes and smoothed them out so water could drain from behind the lockers into the holes I cut last summer in the outer edges of locker bottoms. The holes will allow any condensation that forms along the hull to make its way into the bilge. After I epoxied the settee backs in place I checked the fit of the dividers. Satisfied with the lower ones I scribed the top panels to fit against the not very plumb forward bulkheads--I don't think anything Cape Dory installed was level, square, or plumb . . . though maybe it does not matter on a boat. The upper panels serve as a divider between the pilot berth and a book shelf to be built over the sideboard on the portside and between the pilot berth foot and the heater compartment on the starboard side (see the drawings in the photo section of the 28 Feb 11 entry below). The starboard divider is a safety issue to prevent bedding from being kicked off onto a hot heater and catching fire.
The tabbing was pretty straight forward. I screwed a temporary strong-back in place to make sure the upper panels stayed plumb after I taped them in place. All tabbing was done with a single layer of 17.7oz layer of biaxial: 6" wide on the inside of the settee back; 4" wide on the outside; 4" wide inside and outside where the panels join the settee back; and 3" wide biaxial where the top of the panels are tabbed to the underside of the deck.
I can't install the settee fronts until I add more staving on the aft end of the two dividers as the cleats will be fastened to the staving. All in all, a good week.
Settee backs, pilot berth, and heater and sideboard dividers are installed
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The easiest way to make bunk boards would have been to use a one piece 1/2" thick plywood lid screwed in place with cut out hatches to gain access underneath. However, I have had that system on previous boats and I never liked it. I was always struggling with a full length cushion and little hatches that make it hard to find what I was looking for. These individual bunk boards allow full access to the entire compartment. They will be topped with a pilot berth cushion that will be split in the middle. Place one cushion on the other and you can lift and stack the individual planks to gain full access to the storage locker below.
A few weeks ago I came across some Juniper at my wood merchant. So, I bought some rough cut 5/4 planks about 6" wide. I thought this would be a good wood since it is moderately rot resistant and very light. It also smells wonderful. Once I was ready I cut them to down to about 44" long which was just longer than the required length for the bunk boards. I ran them over my 6" jointer to make sure one edge and one side were flat and square. Then, I ran them through the thickness planer to get two flat sides. Then, I ran them over the table saw to clean up the last edge. Next, I stood each plank on one edge and resawed them on my table saw (it would be better to use a good band saw but I don't have one . . . yet) using a thin kerf blade so I had two boards that were each just over 1/2" thick. Then, I took the boards back to the planer and took them down to a nice smooth 1/2" thick by about 6" wide and 44" long. Next, I cut them to fit across the beams of the pilot berths to meet over the center beam. The starboard berth is about 1 1/2" longer than the port berth so they are custom fit for each berth. I had to scarf two boards together for the outside boards (the ones against the hull as the curve of the hull nearly exceeded the width of the boards. I used a 1/8" slot cutter on my router table to cut the slots and used 3/4" marine grade ply for the splines, which I cut on the table saw. I glued them up so I had four boards that were 10"-12" wide. Next, I used a 1/2" round-over bit on the router to create a radius on all the edges for all the boards. Then, I "scribed" the wide boards, that I glued together, to fit against the curve of the hull. Once I was satisfied with the fit I used a 3/4" paddle bit to cut the finger holes. I routered the inside of the holes with the same round-over bit I used on the edges and then sanded them smooth. Finally, I cleaned up any machine marks with a cabinet scraper.
I am pleased with the way they came out. In the next couple of days I apply a couple of coats of varnish. Too bad since they make the inside of the boat smell like a cedar forest.
Some folks will wonder how we plan to keep the contents of the lockers in the locker in case of a severe knock-down. When we are sailing off shore we will have a strap and buckle system that will lock the boards down but not interfere with the use of the berth. We will still be able to easily gain access to the locker. I'll save the specifics of how we will do that for another time.
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Installing the Quarter Berth
I spent yesterday developing the plan for the quarter berth. I thought a long time ago I would just raise it. Later, I thought I would create two staggered sea berths--one higher and further outboard than the other. When the kid's are old enough to stand their own watch Gayle and I would each have a comfortable sea-berth. I looked through various books for ideas and reviewed some old sketches I made. But after measuring and drawing various options yesterday I realized it would not work well as there just is not enough space for two comfortable berths. The lower one would be cramped and the upper one would be too difficult to get in and out of without some kind of advanced gymnastics move.
After much thought, I decided it would be best to build one good sea berth. About, 23" wide at the shoulder and around 16-18" at the foot. The top will be about 12-15" higher than the original berth and positioned outboard against the hull. Inboard of the berth, between the nav station and the ladder, will be a 'thwart-ship watch seat. There will be storage under the berth and some between the berth and the longitudinal bulkhead that separates the quarter berth area from the ex-engine compartment. I might be able to fit a place to hang wet foul weather gear so we don't have to drag it through the boat.
I started off by attaching some temporary horizontal cleats. Then I erected strong-backs and small vertical cleats to help keep the lower dividers plumb and level when I glassed them in place. Next, I made templates with door skin plywood and a hot glue gun. I removed the templates and traced them on some 1/2" 1088 okume plywood. I checked the fit then removed an additional 3/8" off the bottom to accommodate the closed cell foam wedge. When I was satisfied everything fit properly, I sanded the hull with 40 grit abrasive as well as a 2" wide strip on both sides of the dividers. I vacuumed and performed a thorough acetone wash down. Next, I applied a couple of coats of epoxy to the end grain of the plywood and let it get very tacky. Then I clamped the dividers into place and wet out the hull and the dividers with unthickend epoxy. I wet out the tape and applied a 4" wide strip of 17.08 biaxial to each side. After that I cleaned up the boat and the shop. Later when the epoxy tape was green I trimmed the excess with a razor knife.
