Installing the Settee Locker Bottoms
Next, I removed the water tanks so that I will be able to get into the bilge and be better positioned to epoxy tape in the settee locker bottoms. Then I bolted in the riser/beam at the forward end of the main cabin with two 3/8" SS bolts. Then I repositioned the temporary cabin sole. Next, I made some cleats to provide additional support to the the outboard edge of the settee locker bottoms. I used a sliding bevel gauge to determine the angle. I used some Iroko I had on hand and cut the proper angle on the table saw. Once satisfied with how they fit I positioned them with some thickened epoxy. The locker bottoms will be supported by the knees on the inboard side and by these cleats on the outboard side. They will also be epoxy taped to the hull with two layers of biaxial, so the cleats are just additional support.
Next, I cut 12 four inch wide strips of 17.7 oz biaxial six inches long. I cut some foam wedges and contact cemented them to the sides of the supports that the beams are bolted to and the inside edge of the locker bottom sits on. I wetted out the tape and applied some slightly thickened epoxy to the area where the tape would go. Then I applied two layers of tape to bond the bottom of the locker to the beam supports--two layers of tape on the three supports for each side. I used a heat gun to accelerate the curing since the temperature was beginning to drop.
After the tape was begining to harden I used a razor knife to cut out the tape over the small drain holes I cut in the locker bottoms yesterday.
That finished up the day.
Epoxy tape under locker bottom.
Port side settee locker glassed in.
Drains in locker bottoms.Today I scrubbed the newly applied epoxy tape with water and a 3M pad and wiped it dry with paper towel. Then I lightly sanded it with 80 grit on the 5" Porter Cable right angle DA sander with the vacuum hooked up to debur the edges and lightly scuff it up. Then, I reinstalled the water tanks now that the installing the locker bottoms is complete. It is great to get the locker bottoms glassed in. They feel very solid, in fact the boat feels more solid and seems to vibrate a little less when I walk through it . . . but it could just be my imagination. Nonetheless, I am very pleased with how it turned out.
As previously discussed every horizontal surface in the boat must be re-leveled. In the first photo below you can see how far out of level the partial bulkhead was. Look closely and you can see a pencil line drawn just under the top edge. After marking it, I clamped a straight edge to it and used a router with a flush bit with an end bearing to cut a new edge.
Next, I made a template from doorskin ply wood and laid it on top of a plank of 5/4" cypress. I made it an inch wider (taller) to allow for a 1" deep rabbit cut that allowed it to sit on top of the old bulkhead but overlap the front so I could through-bolt it to the old bulkhead. That way all the weight is on top of the old bulkhead. The bolts just keep it from moving. I cut the pattern out and then cut the rabbit with a 3/4" stack dado on the table saw. I test fit it and drilled the holes then secured it with three 1/4" X 1 1/2" bolts with washers and nylon lock nuts. The new top edge effectively raises the berth about two inches which will provide a little more width to the berth and create a little more room for chain storage underneath the forward part of the berth.
Finally, after much aggravating delay, I started work on the mahogany staving. I began by sorting the pieces I will use for the bulkhead in the forward compartment. Some of the mahogany was a little wavy when I ripped it on the table saw. Thus, tension was tension released in some of the pieces which caused them to "hook" slightly. By cutting some of these pieces to length and reducing the overall length of each piece I reduce the amount of wood that has to be removed on the jointer before I resaw, lap, and cut V-grooves. Pre-cutting the lengths makes the whole process much more cumbersome but straightening out these 10' long pieces on the jointer would just waste a lot of fine wood. I will use these pieces in the forward compartment where they won't be easily seen though I think they will still look fine . . . they're just not as straight grained as the rest. It will also give me a chance to get a feel for the technique I will use for installing the V-groove in the rest of the boat.
It was time to epoxy tape the double berth vertical panel in place. It went smooth. I cut the panel out yesterday after making a doorskin template. I beveled the one end that fits against the bulkhead so it fits flush with the vertical cleat. The cleat is also beveled at 35 degrees. The curved edge of the panel is beveled 30 degrees to fit the sloping hull. I planed the edges and sealed the bottom edge with epoxy last night. So, all I had to do today was cut the foam and contact cement it to the plywood, clamp it in place, and check it for fit. I glued and screwed the bulkhead edge to the cleat I installed yesterday and then taped both sides with a single piece of 6" wide 17.8 biaxial tape and West Epoxy. It looks good and it's great to get it installed. It will need at least one, if not two, dividers. The front face will eventually be covered with mahogany staving.
I spent a little time this afternoon milling a test piece of Juniper (Atlantic White Cedar) to see if it will work for bunk boards. This is super light wood. I ran one side of the 5/4 test piece over the jointer, then planed the other side. Next I resawed it with a thin kerf blade and then ran the resawn edges back through the planer. I was hoping for 1/2" thick but the best I could do was 15/32." Close enough for bunk boards. The test piece came out nice. Too bad I need to varnish them as they smell terrific.
I built templates from doorskin and a hot glue gun. I test clamped them in place. I sealed the edges with epoxy. When I was ready, I used contact cement to glue on the foam wedge between the divider and the hull and then clamped the divider in place. I used a single piece of 6" wide 17.8 biaxial wetted out with West Systems epoxy on each side of the divider. I installed the forward divider two days ago and the aft one today. For the aft one, I cut back to 4" wide biaxial and that seems to be enough. Tim Lackey suggested to me that a single layer on each side was sufficient for non structural things like dividers. I have to work at overcoming my desire to apply multiple layers. But, strong enough is strong enough and there is no sense making the boat heavier than it needs to be.
I spent the rest of the day sorting out how to attack the forward support for the bunk and how it will tie into the anchor locker that will be install "aft" of the forward most bulkhead. I'd like to get 240' of 5/16" chain out of the nose of the boat if possible.
I did not like the two dividers.
So, I cut them out and will replace the two with one divider that is perpindcular to the centerline of the boat.So, tonight I took the saws-all and cut them out then ground out all the excess with a high speed grinder and a flapper wheel. On the bad side it made a hell of a mess. On the good side it validated my reasons for not gluing everything together. The cleats were glued to the vertical panel and screwed to the dividers (if I had been thinking I would have done it the other way). I simply unscrewed them and cut the bulkhead away. I'll leave the cleats in place as stiffeners for the vertical panel. In place of the two panels I will install a single divider that will be perpendicular to the axis of the boat. Instead of pull out drawers, I'll install shelves with cabinet doors that drop open. After removing the two dividers with a saws-all and then grinding out the tabbing I built a template for the new single divider. I picked up a piece of 1/2" Okume from Atlantic Veneer in Beaufort, NC . . . which is just up the road from me.
Before: Two dividers.
After: One divider.When I got back, I traced the template out on the ply and then cut it out with a jigsaw. I cut one side with a 36 degree bevel to match the face of the forward berth and the other side with a 15 degree bevel to match the angle of the hull. I test fit it. Then I scribed a 3/8" deep line with a compass and cut it off to allow for the thickness of the closed cell foam wedge spacer. I power-planed a 2" wide strip on both sides of the divider so the biaxial tape would lie flush with the surface of the plywood divider. I clamped a temporary brace to the top horizontal edge of the divider and then clamped the brace to two strong backs that would ensure it was level with the top of the other berth supports. Next, I glued and screwed a cleat to one side and applied two coats of West Epoxy to the edge grain of the divider that would be closest to the hull and let it sit overnight.
Today, I attached the foam wedge to the divider with contact cement (this just holds it in place so it can't slide around) and reclamped it into position, screwed the cleat to the vertical panel of the double berth (through the staving and ply backing with #10 1 1/2" ss screws) then performed a thorough acetone wipe-down. I wet out the two inch wide strip on the inside of the hull on both sides of the divider as well as the divider where the tape would lay. I wet out the biaxial tape and applied it the hull and the divider. I left it clamped for 8 hours.
The bigger project was getting the aft divider for the anchor locker installed. This was not particularly difficult but it took longer than I would have liked due to family obligations so I spaced it out over two days. After making the template I laid it on a piece of 1/2" okume plywood. After I cut out the divider I went back and forth from the boat to the shop a few times trimming it and getting a good fit. It required a 28 degree angle cut on the sides. When I was satisfied with the fit I used my pencil compass to scribe a line 3/8" from the outer edge then took the divider back to the shop. I used the jig saw to cut this part off the divider and provide room for the 3/8" thick closed cell foam spacer. I cut the foam spacer with 45 degree angles on both sides on my table saw. For a long time I used a serrated knife to cut closed cell foam but the table saw works much better and leaves a very smooth surface.
Next, I used my power planer to remove 1/16" of ply about 2" wide on the aft side of the diver so the tape would lay flush with the surface of the ply. This makes it easier to apply the mahogany staving. Since the forward face will not have staving on it--you can't see it and it would only make the locker smaller--I did not plane that side. I sealed the edge grain with two coats of unthickend epoxy and left it to cure over night. I then cleaned up the table I use for wetting out biaxial and cut some more sheet plastic. I precut 4" wide biaxial tape so I would be ready to go the first thing the next day. I also sanded the fiberglass surface in the boat where the tape would lay as part of the preparation. I vacuumed the dust up and performed a thorough acetone wash down.
Next morning, with everything set up it was a simple task to contact cement the foam wedge spacer onto the edge of the plywood that had been sealed the day before. With the clamping system in position I test fit it one more time. I did a final acetone wipe down, wet out the hull where the 4" wide tape would lay as well as the plywood, and then wet out the biaxial tape. It only took about 10 minutes to lay the tape down--a single strip on each side port and starboard and on the front and aft sides of the divider. About two hours later I used a box cutter to trim the edges of the tape that extended past the top and bottom edge of the divider. It is a hundred times easier to trim the biaxial when it is green than went it is cured.
After several days of putting off cutting out the drawer openings in the forward berth vertical panel, it is finally done. I picked up a pattern cutting router bit (bearing on router side of cutting edge) today at a local hardware store. I used a plywood guide bar attached to the front plywood panel with dry wall screws. I triple checked the cutting lines and made the cuts by moving the guide bar around accordingly. The rounded corners still need to be chiseled out. I think the advantage of this technique is that when the staving is epoxied on to the ply, I can use the cutout to serve as a template for a pattern cutting router bit with the bearing on the cutting edge end. Done this way, the staving edge will exactly match the cut out.
The center span between the drawers is 1 1/2". After the staving is attached and it is trimmed to match the drawer cut outs, I'll add 1/4" thick pencil bead trim which will make the center span 2" wide. My plan is to use mahogany for the rails and styles and a lighter colored wood, such as ash, for the raised panel.
Installing the Settees and Pilot Berths
Next I took a couple of 2x4s that I have run over the jointer and through the planner several times over the last year to keep them nice and straight. I clamped them to the cleats to make sure everything was lined up plum, level, and square to the centerline.
After that I used a pice of 1/8" doorskin plywood to make a pattern for the settee back. I cut it to basically fit between the cleants but not reach the hull. This would be the foundation for the pattern. I used 1/2" stips of plywood between the cleats and the doorskin to offset the face of the doorskin to the same place the real 1/2" ply will be position. Otherwise the doorskin pattern would not be in the same spot as the inboard edge of the 1/2 ply sette back would be. Make sense? Then I used a hot glue gun to attach little strips of doorskin ply to the doorskin foundation to just touch the hull (I don't have a picture of this but will post one later). When I was satisfied I removed the pattern and laid it out on 4x8 sheet of 1/2" BS 1088 Okume ply. I made tick marks with a pencil where the pointers were and connected the dots. I checked the angle of the hull from vertical with a bevel guage and dialed that in on my jigsaw. Then carefully reviewing which way the pattern was laid and which way the angle needed to be beveled on the 1/2" plywood I cut the pattern out. I smothed the edges with a block plane and clamped it in place, made sure it was level and plumb, and checked for fit.
It dawned on me pretty quick that I needed to install the support piece for the back of the settee before I could go any further. When I was satisfied with the pattern, I laid it on 1/2" BS 1088, and made tick marks at the end of each pointed "stick." Then I connected the dots with a pencil. I cut the pattern out with a jig saw and test fit it in place. I had earlier decided to install it on one of the glassed over foam "ribs" used to support ceiling strips along the hull that was exactly halfway between the bulkheads. I test fit the pattern and used the hot glue gun to make little brackets on the 2x4s to hold the dividers in place. I used my power planer to run a 1/16" deep rabbit cut along both sides of the divider so the tape would lay flush. I then vacuumed the area, did a thorough acetone wash down, and brushed on slightly thickened epoxy on the hull and laid a 6"wide strip of wetted out 17.7 biaxial over the rib to reinforce it. I used a squeegee to remove any air bubbles. Next, I sealed the edge of the plywood divider with epoxy and positioned it in place. I mixed up well thickened epoxy and made fillets on both sides of both dividers. Then I gave it about 45 minutes to start to firm up. Next, I took the pre-measured and cut 6" wide biaxial strips, wetted them out, and laid a single piece on each side of the divider.
I began by installing cleats on both sides of the settee back dividers. I test fit the settee backs again. I temporarily screwed in the starboard side settee back. I measured and built templates for the bulkheads that separates the heater compartment from the settee on the starboard side and the sideboard from the settee on the portside. I cut out the patterns and test fit them in place. I let both of them run wild. The one on the starboard side will be cut down quite a bit (see the drawing below) but I don't want to do that till I have decided how they will be attached.
I was unable to decide how to attach these two small bulkheads. Do I dado the settee backs for them to fit into or use cleats or both? If I use cleats how will I hide them or blend them in to the mahogany staving, yet to be installed, so as not to draw attention to them. I'll muse on that this evening. Maybe the answer will come to me.
Below are photos that tell some of the story. The first problem began when I bought the boat . . . just kidding . . . when we decided the compartment for the heater box needed to be a little smaller. So, in order to move the divider forward I had to scarf on a 2" wide extension on to the front end of the starboard settee locker bottom. That made both settees 60" long. Even though the two settees are slightly staggered, due to the bulkheads being staggered, it looks much better. Scarfing the piece on was a fair amount of work but worth it I think. Next, I removed the settee backs, that had been temporarily held in place, and cut dados for the back edge of the dividers and also cut 1/16" deep and 3" wide rabbets with the planer along the bottom edge on both sides . . . 3" on the inside face and 2" wide on the outside. Having the tape lie flush will make it is easier to apply the vertical staving when the ply has a smooth face and also when I install sub dividers inside the settee lockers and under the pilot berths. I also cut slots, with a slot cutter on my router table to ensure proper alignment between the pilot berth divider panels, to be attached on the top edge of the settee back. At the time I also cut and fit the two upper panels to be attached to the settee back top edge. I made splines to fit in the slots and marry up the two pieces of plywood. I thought about using a biscuit cutter but I don't always get the alignment I am looking for with a slot cutter. The splines lined them up perfectly. Then I cut rabbets with the planer along the edges where they joined to provide a recessed surface for the biaxial tape.
I used foam wedges under the edge of the settee backs, not so much to prevent "hard spots, but because it would elevate the edge-grain of the ply and create a more uniform bend to the biaxial tape. To allowed for a few drain holes along the bottom edge of the settee backs, I cut the foam out in a few places so water (condensation when running the heater in cold climates) would have a place to go. Before the epoxy tape was fully cured I cut the tape were the gaps in the foam were and filled the space under the edge and between the tape on the two sides with thickened epoxy leaving little rectangular holes and smoothed them out so water could drain from behind the lockers into the holes I cut last summer in the outer edges of locker bottoms. The holes will allow any condensation that forms along the hull to make its way into the bilge. After I epoxied the settee backs in place I checked the fit of the dividers. Satisfied with the lower ones I scribed the top panels to fit against the not very plumb forward bulkheads--I don't think anything Cape Dory installed was level, square, or plumb . . . though maybe it does not matter on a boat. The upper panels serve as a divider between the pilot berth and a book shelf to be built over the sideboard on the portside and between the pilot berth foot and the heater compartment on the starboard side (see the drawings in the photo section of the 28 Feb 11 entry below). The starboard divider is a safety issue to prevent bedding from being kicked off onto a hot heater and catching fire.
The tabbing was pretty straight forward. I screwed a temporary strong-back in place to make sure the upper panels stayed plumb after I taped them in place. All tabbing was done with a single layer of 17.7oz layer of biaxial: 6" wide on the inside of the settee back; 4" wide on the outside; 4" wide inside and outside where the panels join the settee back; and 3" wide biaxial where the top of the panels are tabbed to the underside of the deck.
I can't install the settee fronts until I add more staving on the aft end of the two dividers as the cleats will be fastened to the staving. All in all, a good week.
Installing the Quarter Berth
After much thought, I decided it would be best to build one good sea berth. About, 23" wide at the shoulder and around 16-18" at the foot. The top will be about 12-15" higher than the original berth and positioned outboard against the hull. Inboard of the berth, between the nav station and the ladder, will be a 'thwart-ship watch seat. There will be storage under the berth and some between the berth and the longitudinal bulkhead that separates the quarter berth area from the ex-engine compartment. I might be able to fit a place to hang wet foul weather gear so we don't have to drag it through the boat.
I started off by attaching some temporary horizontal cleats. Then I erected strong-backs and small vertical cleats to help keep the lower dividers plumb and level when I glassed them in place. Next, I made templates with door skin plywood and a hot glue gun. I removed the templates and traced them on some 1/2" 1088 okume plywood. I checked the fit then removed an additional 3/8" off the bottom to accommodate the closed cell foam wedge. When I was satisfied everything fit properly, I sanded the hull with 40 grit abrasive as well as a 2" wide strip on both sides of the dividers. I vacuumed and performed a thorough acetone wash down. Next, I applied a couple of coats of epoxy to the end grain of the plywood and let it get very tacky. Then I clamped the dividers into place and wet out the hull and the dividers with unthickend epoxy. I wet out the tape and applied a 4" wide strip of 17.08 biaxial to each side. After that I cleaned up the boat and the shop. Later when the epoxy tape was green I trimmed the excess with a razor knife.
The second coat of varnish applied to the quarter berth.After installing the sitz tub I applied the third coat of varnish to the quarter sea-berth vertical panel and the inside of the locker. It really warmed up here today so it was hot work. Sanding all the little areas in the locker took most of the time. However, the inside of the locker only requires three coats so I am done with the locker. The vertical panel will get five coats of varnish. I may stop at three for now--same as the rest of the boat--or I may press ahead so I can have finish off the quarter berth and add the walnut trim to the top edge of the vertical panel. Time will tell. I had a little trouble with my varnish brushes today. I have them hanging in one of those plastic box designed for just that purpose. They hang in kerosene. I noticed some of the brushes had collected a yellow grunge on them even though they were hanging in the kerosene. Turns out it was varnish. If you don't varnish often, that can happen unless you thoroughly clean them before you hang them in the kerosene. I usually, clean them by dipping them in a separate jar of kerosene, spinning them down with a spinner a couple of times, working through the bristles with a brush comb several times, then hanging them in the solution. Apparently, I was still not cleaning them well enough. So, I spent some time this evening cleaning them up. I also use foam brushes and though they are a lot simpler to use in many ways when it comes to the staving the badger hair brushes give me the best results. If I did not have staving to varnish I might only use foam brushes.
Installing Bunk Boards
A few weeks ago I came across some Juniper at my wood merchant. So, I bought some rough cut 5/4 planks about 6" wide. I thought this would be a good wood since it is moderately rot resistant and very light. It also smells wonderful. Once I was ready I cut them to down to about 44" long which was just longer than the required length for the bunk boards. I ran them over my 6" jointer to make sure one edge and one side were flat and square. Then, I ran them through the thickness planer to get two flat sides. Then, I ran them over the table saw to clean up the last edge. Next, I stood each plank on one edge and resawed them on my table saw (it would be better to use a good band saw but I don't have one . . . yet) using a thin kerf blade so I had two boards that were each just over 1/2" thick. Then, I took the boards back to the planer and took them down to a nice smooth 1/2" thick by about 6" wide and 44" long. Next, I cut them to fit across the beams of the pilot berths to meet over the center beam. The starboard berth is about 1 1/2" longer than the port berth so they are custom fit for each berth. I had to scarf two boards together for the outside boards (the ones against the hull as the curve of the hull nearly exceeded the width of the boards. I used a 1/8" slot cutter on my router table to cut the slots and used 3/4" marine grade ply for the splines, which I cut on the table saw. I glued them up so I had four boards that were 10"-12" wide. Next, I used a 1/2" round-over bit on the router to create a radius on all the edges for all the boards. Then, I "scribed" the wide boards, that I glued together, to fit against the curve of the hull. Once I was satisfied with the fit I used a 3/4" paddle bit to cut the finger holes. I routered the inside of the holes with the same round-over bit I used on the edges and then sanded them smooth. Finally, I cleaned up any machine marks with a cabinet scraper.
I am pleased with the way they came out. In the next couple of days I apply a couple of coats of varnish. Too bad since they make the inside of the boat smell like a cedar forest.
Some folks will wonder how we plan to keep the contents of the lockers in the locker in case of a severe knock-down. When we are sailing off shore we will have a strap and buckle system that will lock the boards down but not interfere with the use of the berth. We will still be able to easily gain access to the locker. I'll save the specifics of how we will do that for another time.
While mulling over the radiant barrier options for the icebox I decided to work on the bunk boards for the quarter berth and the forward double berth. It would be a lot easier to just cut them from okume plywood . . . and I have considered doing that off and on for the last few months. But, I decided to proceed with using juniper in the same manner as I did for the pilot berths. The primary reason is weight. Though I have removed a lot of weight from the boat I have also added some back with all the staving and furniture reconfiguration. The juniper is feather light. Much lighter than plywood. Also, it smells great. It has a kind of cedar small. Wonderful stuff. So, as I mentioned in a previous post I bought some about two weeks ago. These are wider planks than I used last time, so I couldn't resaw them on my table saw. My friend Tom Cariker has a band saw and I took my planks over to his house yesterday where we resawed them. Today, I planed them down to 1/2". Tonight, I glued up the planks for the quarter berth with biscuit joints and Titebond III glue. Tomorrow, I will use the doorskin templates I made to trim them to shape and then fit them in place. Eventually, I will varnish them. As I continue to work on the icebox over the next week I will continue to work on the bunk boards at the same time.
I milled the juniper down to 1/2" thick and glued them together to make bunkboards.The bunk boards are almost completed. I spent the last couple of days gluing them up and then cutting them to fit based on the templates I made last week. Today, I used a portable belt sander to smooth them down and then gentle round the edges. I still need to cut finger holes so we can easily remove them to get into the compartments. The whole boat smells like cedar which is very pleasant. I need to get a sealer coat on them very soon to protect the wood since the boards are fairly large dimension and thus susceptible to warping unless they are protected. Gayle and I crawled up in the double berth this afternoon to check out the size and see how much room there is since we have not been able to confirm the dimension. It was quite roomy. It's going to work out great.
The forward double berth.
The quarter berth.The next step was to cut finger holes in the bunk boards. I used a 3/4" paddle bit and drilled from both sides so as not to cause any tear-out. Then I routered the holes on both sides with a 1/4" round over bit. The placement of the holes was driven by ergonomics and balance point for the panels--single holes for the boards that had three panels and double holes for the the boards with two. This was necessary to keep from drilling a hole on the glue line. I also angled the double finger holes for those boards that required a certain hand position to get to them comfortably. After checking the fit of the boards I took them to the saw horses and began to apply a couple of coats of varnish, the first coat thinned 1:1 with mineral spirits.
Finger holes for the bunk boards.
Quarter berth bunk boards with finger holes.I finished up the bunk boards after I applied two coats of varnish to the undersides and three coats to the tops. They look great. But, as occasionally happens a good idea reveals itself after point of no return . . . I think a better course of action would been to only varnish the tops of the bunk boards and left the underside bare. That way, the boards would be protected from moisture on the top side and left bare they would have been much more aromatic. Live and learn. With the bunk boards back in the boat I turned my full attention to the icebox.
I have been thinking about cutting a hole in the bulkhead at the foot of the quarterberth. This is typically a stuffy berth and I wanted to improve the ventilation. There are two 4" cowl vents on the fantail of the Far Reach. There are 4" diameter holes cut in the bulkhead that separates the lazerette from the starboard cockpit locker. The hole and vent were part of the engine ventilation system. By cutting a hole in the foot of the quarterberth the air should move straight back through the locker, into the lazerette and out the cowl . . . or the opposite direction with a breeze from astern. I really wanted to cut a rectangular hole but the location of the kerosene tank on the other side of the bulkhead limited how big and where the ventilation hole could be. I was concerned that a square would introduce "stress risers" to close to the edge of the bulkhead. So, I cut a 4 3/4" hole with the hole saw I bought for the Refleks heater flue. Within seconds of cutting the hole air started to flow. Amazing.
The 4 3/4" vent hole I cut at the foot of the quarter berth. Air started flowing immediately.I spent a few hours today finishing up the trim to hide the scupper hose that drains the starboard side cockpit seat to the cockpit footwell. It's an awkward hose to deal with as it is difficult to hide without interfering with the limited room associated with the quarter berth while also leaving enough room for the bilge pump handle. The angular shape draws some attention but by incorporating mahogany staving, consistent with the rest of the interior trim, it mostly blends in with its surrounding.
Pilot Berth Book Shelves
We have some of the interior cushions back from the Upholsterer. So far, he is doing a wonderful job. We were a little hesitant on the color but it has really grown on us. It's sage green 100 percent acrylic velvet by Sunbrella It was not very expensive. I think we paid about $17 per yard. We should have the settees and berths back soon. We will also have some bolsters for the front and forward sides of the double berth. The forward double berth is 5" thick. All the other berths are four inches. The cushions are two inches of firm with 2" of soft on top. Very comfy.