Note: I added another page under the "Projects" page that should allow smart phone and iPad users to access the separate projects via hyperlinks. I don't know why but it seems that smart phones can't access the drop down menus.
2 March 14Slow but steady. I installed the cabinet doors in the forward cabin after numerous coats of varnish. I need to install some small catch chains to prevent the door from opening past 90 degrees. One of the nice things about high gloss varnish is that it reflects a lot of light and makes what would otherwise look dark kind of bright. Way back in the days of black and white when we started this project I thought I might varnish the interior with a less glossy rubbed effect varnish. In fact, the Epifanes rep I talked to even recommended it. He said it was so much easier to apply . . . just two to three coats of gloss then two coats of Rubbed Effect and you are done. He said that becuase it is less glossy it was more forgiving in application. So, I bought some and tested it on a sample. I did not like it. It was dull and flat and I knew right away it would suck the light right out of the boat. Despite the extra work, I have very happy with the high gloss. It makes me smile evertime I go below.
I completed the installation of the kerosene fuel tank. I had to add a vent tube (photos below). There were not many place to install it. When I designed the tank I had already determined this was the best option availble so this was not a surprise. It was the plan all along. I drilled down through the side deck, next to the cockpit coaming and just aft of the primary winch pad. The tank vent hose barb was directly below. I over drilled the hole and then filled it with epoxy. After it cured, I drilled a 5/16" diameter hole through the epoxy plug and chamfered the hole. I applied some Teff-Gel to the washers and installed the 1/4" bolts through the aluminum tank flanges and bolted it in place to the bulkhead on the aft end of the quarterberth. Next, I used a piece of 1/4" copper tubing and bent it to a "U" shape and test fit it down through the hole I drilled in the deck. I had to install a teak spacer block since I could not get the hole next to the coaming as the deck mold was recessed down for the coaming to bolt to. I needed copper straps to secure the vent tube in place. I used a hack saw to cut 3/8" wide sections from a 1" diameter piece of scrap copper pipe. I split them and heated them up. While they were glowing hot I hammered them flat, bent them around the copper tube, and then quenched them in cold water. I drilled holes in the end then secured them to the teak spacer block with bronze screws. After test fitting I bedded the teak block with Dolphinite. I caulked the chamfered hole the copper tube passes through with Boat Life polysulfied. It's not a perfect solution but I am satisfied with the look and how it blends in with the rest of the boat. Last, I installed a short section of Trident fuel line to connect the tank to the copper tube and secured it in place with SS hose clamps. Once I install the teak wood plugs the project will be complete.