Note: I added another page under the "Projects" page that should allow smart phone and iPad users to access the separate projects via hyperlinks. I don't know why but it seems that smart phones can't access the drop down menus.
16 Dec 14I did not have a lot of time for working on the boat today. I have been tackling small projects on the list as I have time since we have slowed down a bit lately. Today, I installed a heavy duty 3/4" galvanized thimble to the 8' military surplus Bureau of Ordanance parachute sea anchor we purchased a few months ago from Fioeintino Para-Anchors. I used #42 tarred nylon twine to "serve" the apex of the suspension lines. After bending the served portion around the thimble, used clamps to hold it in place. The thing was too big for my splicing vise. Then, I used the same nylon twine as whipping to secure the suspension lines together and secure the thimble in place. Later this winter we will make a canvas bag for the parachute and supporting swivel and shackles.
13 Dec 2014For the last few days I have been working fire up the refleks heater. I installed a model M-66MK a while back--click here for more info on the installation. I had to fuss with the fuel line for a few hours as the fuel did not want to run through the fuel line, fuel filter, past the diverter line and separate pet-cock, and to the heater regulator. After a little while I finally came up with the right combination of steps to bleed the air from the line. Starting the heater up was an interesting experience as the directions don't provide a lot of info--they are translated from Danish to English. The key, however, is to start with good fuel. I started using Sunnyside Pure A1 Clear Kerosene a few months ago to solve some issues with my cabin lights. I found it at our local hardware store. What a difference over standard died kerosene I used in round which heater we use on occasion in our garage. Absolutely smokeless. Very little to no odor when burning.
Additional Mast and Boom Hardware. I have a few more pieces of hardware left to add to the spars. Recently, I added some Shafer pad eyes to the end of the boom to serve as attachment points for the preventer for downwind sailing. I wanted to through-bolt them as I could easily reach the inside of the boom through the end. I cut some small 1/4" G10 backing plates and radiused them to fit the concave shape on the inside of the boom. I drilled 1/4" holes, test fit the pad eyes, marked the bolts for length, and cut them with a hack saw. Next, I dropped the bolts in some Stellar Solutions 77 "passivating" solution to neutralized and ferrous metal debris from the cutting of the bolts and to neutralize any other impure contaminates on the SS surface. I have been doing this for a year or so for every external SS fastener or exterior hardware (Though I don't have much SS on the exterior of the boat). The directions say to leave the product bathed for 30 min. If it's the end of the day, I leave them overnight. I pour the used solution back into the bottle. I was told by an engineer that has used it for years that returning the used solution back to the bottle does not make any difference to the effectiveness of the remaining solution. Then, I applied UHMW tape to the bottom surface of the pad eyes (to prevent galvanic corrosion), cut the holes out with an exacto knife and installed them after applying some Teff Gel to the fasteners where they made contact with the aluminum. I also installed some pad eyes on the mast below the winches and belaying pin rack so that I can secure the tails of the halyards.
4 Nov 14I completed the fairing and painting of the base for the new mast collar. I applied a light coating of kiwigrip yesterday and then another with the textured roller this morning. Tomorrow, I will bed the mast collar with 3M 4000UV. The boat is in need of a bath. But, it will have to wait a little longer. The focus of my efforts has shifted back to the rig. I am working on the outhaul for the boom and prepping for splicing one end of the standing rigging.