Ice Box/Chart Table
Laying the Ground Work
Today, with every thing pre cut and ready to install the work went quick. I vacuumed and performed a thorough acetone wash down of the appropriate surfaces. Then, I brushed epoxy on the splines and slots and installed the plywood additions. Then, I wet out the plywood along the recessed rabbet. I wet out the biaxial and laid it on smoothing it out to remove any air bubbles. Next, I mixed up some more epoxy slightly thickened with 407 medium density filler. I trowled it on and worked it into the previously installed and sill wet biaxial tape filling in any gaps around the edges. This will ensure I have a flush surface for paint or mahogany staving as the situation requires.
The top edge of the bulkhead/divider addition is not perfectly horizontal. I knew that when I test fit it and thus I made it a little taller than it needed to be. I will use a guide bar tomorrow with a flush cut router bit and trim it level. It will be 35 1/4" high. The 3/4" thick solid ash chart table surface will close down on top of the aft bulkhead. The forward bulkhead will rise above the chart table and match the height of the portside bulkhead that divides the saloon from the galley.
Construction of the icebox and chart table.
I used doorskin ply and a hot glue gun to determine the exact location for the right angle fiberglass. Once I was satisfied, I cut them to length with a saber saw and installed them with 1/4" bolts. I then cut the u channels to lay flat on the right angle pieces. Satisfied that everything lined up, I removed the assembly and painted the bare fiberglass with Interlux BilgeKote paint. Tomorrow I'll reinstall the frame and begin building the templates for the 1/4" ply bottom and back.
Now, for the magic part. I left the first plank and guide bar all clamped in place. I set the next plank across the saw horses and left a gap between the two planks 1/16" less wide than the thickness of the router bit. The easiest way to get the space just right is to measure the thickness of the bit and cut two spacer blocks 1/16" less than that thickness. I set the spacers between the planks, clamped the second plank in place, and then removed the spacers. Then, I ran the router back along the same guide bar but from the opposite direction because now the cut is on the opposite plank and you always want the router to cut against the direction you are moving the router (you don't want the spinning blade to "pull" the router along). Because I already routed the first plank and left the guide bar in the same place the bit is just spinning along the face of the first plank while the cutting is being done on the second plank.